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Scuba Diving in Cabo Pulmo, Baja California December 1, 2008

Posted by Chris Sullivan in Dive Log.
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My final day of diving in the region was a long drive from Los Cabos. On July 22, 2006, we headed along a highway toward La Paz, then down a very long dirt road to a dusty little village full. While it looked like  the middle of nowhere there were a couple of  signs crudely painted on bare boards advertising high speed Internet. The dive shop had contracted a local fishing boat to take us out to the reef  for our two dives.

They said Cabo Pulmo was the only coral reef in the Pacific. Perhaps it’s the only coral reef on the Pacific side of Mexico but of course the Pacific is a big ocean and home to the Great Barrier Reef among many others. Once again, though, the diving here was notable by its voluminous fish life, with huge schools of fish swimming lazily by. At times I would find myself floating in the middle of the school and they would just separate around me and rejoin a few feet later. Truly magical.

los-cabos-school-and-bubbles

Neither dive was particular deep, with both just a little over 50 feet. There were plentiful Morays, Puffers, Starfish, and even a sea snake. There also Angelfish, Grunts, Jacks, Grouper and Tuna. The shallow dives were both reasonably long at 51 minutes, and the water temperature was a comfortable 80F (27C).

los-cabos-grunts

After the diving we went to a little outdoor restaurant right on the oceanfront. We were the only customers and it looked like a private residence with some tents set up, but the food was outstanding. We were served Grouper Tacos, and they were so delicious I had three huge ones. So even though I was staying at the Intercontinental Presidente with a huge selection of food on offer, this was the best meal I’d had the entire week – perhaps even the entire year.

Unfortunately the day ended on a sour note. My hotel was on the way back from Cabo Pulmo, while the dive shop in Cabo San Lucas was 45 minutes (and 30 dollar taxi ride) beyond it. They stopped to let me off but asked me for the cash for the remainder of the diving. At the beginning of the week I’d signed a Visa slip so they could charge me, but they told me they couldn’t accept it. The guide started to load my gear back into the van. Reluctantly I went with them, where they told me that they tried to clear my Visa at the bank but had been refused. I can’t remember now the circumstance but I realized that this was an outright lie, told for their own convenience. I signed my Visa and left without leaving a tip, since they’d cost me $30 for the cab fare.

That was my last dive at Los Cabos. I’d say it’s among the best I’ve ever experienced, but less convenient that other places I’ve been so it’s a hard place to visit with my wife. We also both got Montezuma’s revenge from the hotel food, and both required Cipro when we got back to Canada.

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